Travel Hanok Architecture: Structural System, Spatial Composition, and Building Logic 한…
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Hanok Architecture: Structural System, Spatial Composition, and Building Logic
한옥 건축의 구조: 구조체계·공간 구성·시공 논리
---
## English
### 1) What a “Hanok structure” really is
A **hanok** is not defined by a single look (tiles, wooden posts, paper windows) but by a **structural-and-environmental logic**:
* A **post-and-beam timber frame** that carries the roof loads.
* A **layered roof system** with long eaves that control sun and rain.
* A **dual thermal strategy**: **ondol** (heated floor) for winter and **maru** (raised wooden floor) for summer.
* A **courtyard-based plan** that organizes privacy, airflow, and daily life.
---
### 2) Site planning and orientation
Traditional hanok placement is strongly tied to **climate and topography**:
* **Orientation**: commonly favors **southern exposure** for winter sun and daylight.
* **Wind and drainage**: buildings are placed to avoid harsh winds and to shed rainwater away from foundations.
* **Courtyard (madang)**: acts as the outdoor “room” that provides light, ventilation, and a buffer between spaces.
* **Gradient of privacy**: public → semi-public → private zones are typically arranged from the gate inward.
---
### 3) Spatial composition: how a hanok is organized
A classical compound-style hanok (especially larger ones) is composed of multiple buildings or wings:
* **Sarangchae**: guest-facing or male/public functions (reception, study, external-facing rooms).
* **Anchae**: family/private core (kitchen, main rooms, daily living).
* **Haengnangchae / servants’ wing**: storage, utility, workers’ quarters (varies by region and status).
* **Byeolchae**: detached ancillary building (library, pavilion-like room, retreat, storage).
* **Gate area**: the entry sequence often “turns” to limit direct sightlines into private zones.
This is not only cultural; it is also **structural and environmental**: separate volumes allow better ventilation, easier repair, and clearer functional zoning.
---
### 4) The timber frame: posts, beams, and load paths
Most hanok frames are a form of **wooden post-and-beam (gagu) structure**.
**Core components (functional view)**
* **Foundation stones / stylobate**: stones raise wood above wet ground and help distribute loads.
* **Columns (posts)**: vertical members transferring roof loads into the ground.
* **Beams and girders**: horizontal members tying columns together and supporting the roof structure.
* **Brackets and arms (gongpo, in more elaborate styles)**: stepped support elements that extend and distribute roof loads, especially at eaves.
* **Purlins + rafters**: secondary members that shape the roof and carry the roof layers.
**How the structure works**
* The **roof is the dominant load** in hanok, especially with heavy tile systems.
* Loads travel: **tile and roof layers → rafters → purlins/beams → columns → stone bases → ground**.
* Walls are often **non-load-bearing** or lightly structural compared with the timber frame, allowing flexible partitions and abundant openings.
---
### 5) Joinery and assembly: strength without metal fasteners
A defining technical feature is **traditional joinery**:
* **Mortise-and-tenon**-type joints and interlocking wood geometry.
* The frame is designed so members **lock under load**, which improves stability.
* This approach supports repair: members can be replaced with less damage to adjacent parts.
(Modern restorations may discreetly add steel connectors for code compliance, but the traditional logic is still joinery-first.)
---
### 6) The roof system: the “engine” of the hanok silhouette
The roof is both structural and climatic.
**Roof coverings**
* **Giwa (tile roof)**: durable, heavy, prestigious; requires robust framing.
* **Choga (thatch roof)**: lighter, strong insulation performance, needs periodic replacement.
**Roof types (common forms)**
* **Matbae**: simple gable roof.
* **Paljak**: hip-and-gable roof (complex and expressive).
* **Ujingak**: hipped roof.
**Why eaves matter**
* **Deep eaves** block high summer sun yet admit low winter sun.
* They reduce wall wetting by rain and protect paper windows and plaster surfaces.
---
### 7) Floors: ondol and maru as a seasonal HVAC system
**Ondol (gudeul) heated floor**
* Heat source traditionally came from the **kitchen fire (agungi)**.
* Hot gases passed through **flues beneath stone slabs**, warming the floor, then exited via a chimney.
* Ondol provides stable radiant heat, ideal for sitting/sleeping on the floor.
**Maru (raised wooden floor)**
* A ventilated cavity under the floor helps keep it dry.
* In summer, the maru becomes a naturally cool zone with airflow, especially when aligned with breezes through open doors.
Many hanok plans deliberately place ondol rooms adjacent to maru spaces to create a **thermal gradient** that matches seasonal living patterns.
---
### 8) Walls, windows, and openings: breathable, adjustable boundaries
**Wall construction**
* Often a combination of **wood framing + earthen infill/plaster** (clay, sand, sometimes lime) that buffers humidity.
* The wall is part enclosure, part climate moderator.
**Changho (doors/windows) with hanji (paper)**
* Paper over a wooden lattice diffuses light, reduces glare, and allows subtle vapor permeability.
* Multiple layers (outer shutters + inner paper doors) create a flexible insulation system.
Openings can be reconfigured daily: fully open for airflow, partially closed for shade, or layered shut for warmth.
---
### 9) The modular bay: “kan” as a planning unit
Traditional planning uses a bay module often described as **kan** (space between columns).
* Room sizes and proportions are frequently expressed by the number of bays.
* This modularity helps structural clarity, incremental expansion, and repair.
---
### 10) Regional and social variations (why hanok is not one “standard”)
Hanok differs by:
* **Climate**: colder regions emphasize ondol density and enclosure; warmer regions emphasize open maru and airflow.
* **Materials**: timber species, stone availability, soil composition.
* **Status**: bracket complexity, roof form, compound size, and detailing reflect social hierarchy.
---
### 11) Practical tips and modern applications (without changing the core logic)
**A. Moisture is the #1 enemy**
* Keep wood lifted from ground moisture; ensure site drainage.
* Control splash-back from the courtyard; manage roof runoff and gutters carefully (even if hidden).
**B. Airtightness must be balanced with breathability**
* Over-sealing with modern membranes can trap moisture in earthen walls.
* If adding insulation, design a moisture strategy (vapor control + ventilation), not just thicker walls.
**C. MEP integration (electricity/plumbing/heating) should respect the frame**
* Avoid cutting primary posts/beams.
* Route services in reversible chases or secondary cavities so future repairs remain possible.
**D. Seismic/wind upgrades should be “reversible and distributed”**
* Strengthen connections at critical joints, add discreet bracing where it does not concentrate stress.
* Prefer many small improvements over a few rigid interventions that change load paths.
**E. Best modern use-cases**
* Passive comfort buildings: deep eaves + courtyard ventilation.
* Wellness/hospitality: ondol-style radiant heat and warm material tactility.
* Hybrid homes: modern insulation and glazing paired with hanok spatial logic (madang, maru, layered thresholds).
---
## 한국어
### 1) 한옥 구조의 핵심은 “형태”가 아니라 “논리”
한옥은 기와·목재·한지 같은 외형보다, 다음의 **구조·환경 설계 원리**로 정의됩니다.
* 지붕 하중을 받는 **목구조(기둥-보 구조)** 중심의 골조
* 햇빛·비를 제어하는 **깊은 처마와 다층 지붕**
* 겨울엔 **온돌**, 여름엔 **마루**로 계절을 분리하는 “자연형 공조”
* **마당(마당=외부 거실)** 중심의 채(棟) 배치로 채광·통풍·사생활을 조직
---
### 2) 배치와 방향: 땅·바람·햇빛을 먼저 읽는다
* 대체로 **남향 선호**(겨울 일사 확보, 채광 유리)
* 빗물 흐름과 배수 고려로 **기단·초석**을 높이고 물길을 만든다
* **마당**은 빛과 바람을 끌어들이는 장치이자, 생활 동선의 완충 공간
* 대문에서 안쪽으로 들어갈수록 **공적 → 사적** 영역이 단계적으로 깊어진다
---
### 3) 공간 구성: “채”의 조합으로 생활과 위계를 만든다
전통 한옥(특히 규모 있는 가옥)은 여러 동(채)이 기능을 나눕니다.
* **사랑채**: 손님·응접·서재 등 외부 지향/공적 영역
* **안채**: 가족 생활의 중심(부엌, 안방, 생활 공간)
* **행랑채**: 수납·부속·관리 기능(가옥 성격에 따라)
* **별채**: 서재·정자형 공간·휴식·부속 공간 등
이 분리는 문화뿐 아니라 **환기·채광·수리·확장**을 유리하게 하는 기술적 장점도 있습니다.
---
### 4) 목구조 골조: 기둥-보가 지붕을 들고, 벽은 “가볍게” 감싼다
한옥의 뼈대는 대개 **가구식 목구조**입니다.
* **초석/기단**: 목재가 땅의 습기를 직접 받지 않게 띄우고 하중을 분산
* **기둥**: 지붕 하중을 수직으로 전달
* **보·도리·장선(구성에 따라)**: 기둥을 묶고 지붕틀을 받침
* **서까래**: 지붕 곡선·형상을 만들며 지붕층을 지지
* (격식 높은 건물은) **공포** 등 받침 부재가 처마 하중을 분산
하중 흐름은 대체로
**지붕(기와·토층) → 서까래 → 도리/보 → 기둥 → 초석 → 지반**
으로 내려갑니다. 그래서 벽은 구조적 역할이 상대적으로 적고, **문·창·칸막이를 유연하게** 만들 수 있습니다.
---
### 5) 결구(짜맞춤): 못보다 “맞물림”으로 강도를 만든다
한옥은 전통적으로
* **장부짜임, 연귀, 촉·홈** 같은 짜맞춤으로 부재를 결합
* 하중이 실릴수록 **더 단단히 잠기는 구조**를 지향
* 수리 시에도 한 부재만 교체하는 등 **복원·보수**에 유리
현대 보수에서는 안전 기준 때문에 철물 보강을 섞기도 하지만, 기본 철학은 “결구 중심”입니다.
---
### 6) 지붕: 한옥의 상징이자 기능 장치
* **기와지붕(瓦)**: 내구성·위엄·방수성, 다만 무겁기 때문에 골조가 튼튼해야 함
* **초가지붕**: 가볍고 단열감 좋으나 주기적 보수 필요
지붕 형식(대표)
* **맞배지붕**(단순한 박공)
* **팔작지붕**(박공+사면 결합, 형태가 풍부)
* **우진각지붕**(사면지붕)
**처마의 역할**
* 여름의 높은 해는 차단하고, 겨울의 낮은 해는 들이는 **계절형 차양**
* 비가 벽·창호에 직접 튀는 것을 줄여 **내구성**을 높임
---
### 7) 바닥: 온돌과 마루는 “계절별 생활 장치”
**온돌(구들)**
* 전통적으로 부엌 아궁이의 열기가 구들장을 지나 굴뚝으로 빠지며 바닥을 덥힘
* 복사난방 특성이 강해 체감이 좋고, 좌식 생활과 결합
**마루**
* 지면에서 띄워 바람이 통하게 하여 여름에 시원
* 문을 열면 바람길이 생겨 **자연 환기**에 유리
한옥은 온돌방과 마루를 배치해 계절에 따라 생활 중심이 이동하도록 설계하는 경우가 많습니다.
---
### 8) 벽·창호: “숨 쉬는 경계”와 가변적 개폐
* 벽은 목재 골조에 흙(토벽)·미장 등을 조합해 **습도 완충** 기능을 가짐
* **창호(한지문)**는 빛을 부드럽게 확산하고, 여러 겹(덧문+한지문)으로 **단열을 조절**함
* 개폐가 자유로워 하루 안에서도 **통풍·차광·보온** 모드를 바꿀 수 있음
---
### 9) 칸(間): 기둥 사이 모듈이 평면을 만든다
한옥은 기둥 사이 간격을 기준으로 공간을 구성하는 **칸 모듈** 개념이 강합니다.
* 방 크기·비례가 칸 수로 표현되는 경우가 많고
* 구조가 명확해 증축·수리에도 유리합니다
---
### 10) 응용·팁: 현대에 한옥 논리를 살리는 방법
* **습기 관리가 최우선**: 배수, 처마 빗물, 마당 물튐, 목재 띄움(기단·초석) 관리가 성패를 좌우
* **기밀·단열은 “과하면 독”**: 토벽은 숨 쉬는 재료이므로, 무조건 밀봉하면 결로·부패 위험이 커짐(환기·방습 전략 포함)
* **설비(MEP)는 구조체를 피해 가기**: 기둥·보를 절단하지 않고, 되돌릴 수 있는 배선/배관 경로를 만드는 것이 보수성에 유리
* **내진·내풍 보강은 분산형으로**: 특정 지점만 과도하게 강하게 만들면 하중 경로가 바뀌어 오히려 손상이 집중될 수 있음
* **현대적 최적 활용**: 패시브 차양(처마), 마당 기반 환기, 온돌형 복사난방, 레이어드(겹) 경계의 공간 경험은 현대 주거·숙박·웰니스에 강점
---
## 日本語
### 1) 韓屋（ハノク）の構造は「見た目」ではなく「仕組み」
韓屋は、木の柱梁構造を骨格にして、深い軒と多層の屋根、そして**冬＝オンドル／夏＝マル**という季節分離で快適性をつくる建築です。中庭（マダン）が光と風を取り込み、生活の中心になります。
### 2) 配置と平面：中庭と領域の段階
* 南向きの採光を重視する例が多い
* 門から奥に向かって公的→私的が深まる
* サランチェ（客・応接）／アンチェ（家族生活）など機能分棟で、通風・採光・修理性にも利点
### 3) 木組み：柱・梁が屋根を支え、壁は比較的軽い
* 柱→梁・桁→垂木で屋根荷重を受け、**石の礎石**へ伝える
* 壁は充填・間仕切りとしての性格が強く、開口（建具）を柔軟にできる
### 4) 結合（継手・仕口）：金物より“組む”
ほぞ・込み栓的な木組みで、荷重がかかるほど締まる考え方。補修時の部材交換にも向きます。
### 5) 屋根：軒が日射と雨を制御する
瓦屋根（重いが耐久）や茅葺き（軽いが補修周期）など。深い軒は夏の日射を遮り、雨から壁と建具を守ります。
### 6) 床：オンドルとマルが季節の空調になる
* オンドル：床下の煙道で床を温める放射暖房
* マル：床下通風で夏に涼しい
この組み合わせが、韓屋の快適性の核です。
### 7) 現代応用の要点
湿気対策（排水・雨仕舞い）が最重要。気密化は土壁の性質と整合させ、結露リスクを管理。設備配管は主要構造を避け、可逆性を確保するのが基本です。
---
## Español
### 1) Qué es “la estructura” de un hanok
Un **hanok** se entiende por su lógica: **armazón de madera de postes y vigas**, **tejado estratificado con aleros profundos**, y una estrategia térmica estacional: **ondol** (suelo radiante tradicional) en invierno y **maru** (tarima elevada ventilada) en verano, organizada alrededor del **patio (madang)**.
### 2) Implantación y organización espacial
* Orientación frecuentemente favorable al sol invernal (sur)
* Patio como “habitación exterior” para luz y ventilación
* Secuencia de privacidad desde la puerta hacia el interior
* Volúmenes por función (sarangchae más público; anchae más privado), lo que mejora ventilación y mantenimiento
### 3) Sistema portante de madera
* Cargas del tejado → cabios/elementos secundarios → vigas/correas → postes → bases de piedra → terreno
* Los muros suelen ser más ligeros y permiten grandes aberturas y particiones flexibles
### 4) Ensambles: resistencia mediante carpintería
Uniones tipo mortaja-espiga y geometrías encastradas; facilitan reparación y sustitución de piezas.
### 5) Tejado y aleros
Cubiertas de teja (pesadas y duraderas) o paja (más ligera, requiere reposición). Aleros profundos: sombrean en verano, dejan entrar sol bajo en invierno y protegen muros y carpinterías de la lluvia.
### 6) Suelos: ondol y maru como climatización natural
Ondol aporta calor radiante estable; maru aporta frescor por ventilación inferior. Su combinación crea confort sin depender totalmente de sistemas mecánicos.
### 7) Consejos de aplicación moderna
Prioridad absoluta: humedad y drenaje. La “super-estanqueidad” puede atrapar vapor en muros de tierra; hay que diseñar control de vapor y ventilación. Integrar instalaciones evitando cortar postes/vigas principales y manteniendo soluciones reversibles.
---
## Français
### 1) La structure d’un hanok : une logique constructive et climatique
Un **hanok** repose sur une **ossature bois poteaux-poutres**, un **toit épais à grands débords**, et une stratégie saisonnière : **ondol** (chauffage de sol traditionnel) pour l’hiver et **maru** (plancher surélevé ventilé) pour l’été, articulés autour de la **cour (madang)**.
### 2) Implantation et plan
* Orientation souvent favorable à l’ensoleillement hivernal
* Cour comme pièce extérieure (lumière, ventilation, tampon thermique)
* Progression d’intimité depuis l’entrée vers le cœur de la maison
* Répartition en corps de bâtiment (ex. sarangchae plus public, anchae plus privé), utile aussi pour l’aération et l’entretien
### 3) Ossature porteuse : le toit domine la structure
Le chemin des charges suit : couverture → chevrons → pannes/poutres → poteaux → dés de pierre → sol. Les murs jouent souvent un rôle d’enveloppe plus que de porteur principal, d’où une grande souplesse d’ouvertures.
### 4) Assemblages bois : “tenir par l’emboîtement”
Les assemblages traditionnels (type tenon-mortaise) et la géométrie des pièces permettent une structure robuste et réparable (remplacement de pièces sans démolir l’ensemble).
### 5) Toiture et grands débords
Toit en tuiles (durable mais lourd) ou en chaume (plus léger, entretien périodique). Les grands débords protègent l’enveloppe, gèrent soleil et pluie, et contribuent fortement au confort.
### 6) Sols : ondol + maru = confort saisonnier
Ondol apporte une chaleur rayonnante stable; maru crée un espace frais grâce à la ventilation sous plancher. L’alternance des usages selon la saison est au cœur du “fonctionnement” d’un hanok.
### 7) Conseils d’intégration contemporaine
La gestion de l’humidité (drainage, eaux de toiture, protection du bois) est décisive. Une étanchéité excessive peut piéger la vapeur dans des parois en terre; il faut une stratégie hygrothermique complète. Les réseaux (élec/plomberie) doivent éviter les pièces porteuses et rester réversibles pour préserver la maintenabilité.
한옥 건축의 구조: 구조체계·공간 구성·시공 논리
---
## English
### 1) What a “Hanok structure” really is
A **hanok** is not defined by a single look (tiles, wooden posts, paper windows) but by a **structural-and-environmental logic**:
* A **post-and-beam timber frame** that carries the roof loads.
* A **layered roof system** with long eaves that control sun and rain.
* A **dual thermal strategy**: **ondol** (heated floor) for winter and **maru** (raised wooden floor) for summer.
* A **courtyard-based plan** that organizes privacy, airflow, and daily life.
---
### 2) Site planning and orientation
Traditional hanok placement is strongly tied to **climate and topography**:
* **Orientation**: commonly favors **southern exposure** for winter sun and daylight.
* **Wind and drainage**: buildings are placed to avoid harsh winds and to shed rainwater away from foundations.
* **Courtyard (madang)**: acts as the outdoor “room” that provides light, ventilation, and a buffer between spaces.
* **Gradient of privacy**: public → semi-public → private zones are typically arranged from the gate inward.
---
### 3) Spatial composition: how a hanok is organized
A classical compound-style hanok (especially larger ones) is composed of multiple buildings or wings:
* **Sarangchae**: guest-facing or male/public functions (reception, study, external-facing rooms).
* **Anchae**: family/private core (kitchen, main rooms, daily living).
* **Haengnangchae / servants’ wing**: storage, utility, workers’ quarters (varies by region and status).
* **Byeolchae**: detached ancillary building (library, pavilion-like room, retreat, storage).
* **Gate area**: the entry sequence often “turns” to limit direct sightlines into private zones.
This is not only cultural; it is also **structural and environmental**: separate volumes allow better ventilation, easier repair, and clearer functional zoning.
---
### 4) The timber frame: posts, beams, and load paths
Most hanok frames are a form of **wooden post-and-beam (gagu) structure**.
**Core components (functional view)**
* **Foundation stones / stylobate**: stones raise wood above wet ground and help distribute loads.
* **Columns (posts)**: vertical members transferring roof loads into the ground.
* **Beams and girders**: horizontal members tying columns together and supporting the roof structure.
* **Brackets and arms (gongpo, in more elaborate styles)**: stepped support elements that extend and distribute roof loads, especially at eaves.
* **Purlins + rafters**: secondary members that shape the roof and carry the roof layers.
**How the structure works**
* The **roof is the dominant load** in hanok, especially with heavy tile systems.
* Loads travel: **tile and roof layers → rafters → purlins/beams → columns → stone bases → ground**.
* Walls are often **non-load-bearing** or lightly structural compared with the timber frame, allowing flexible partitions and abundant openings.
---
### 5) Joinery and assembly: strength without metal fasteners
A defining technical feature is **traditional joinery**:
* **Mortise-and-tenon**-type joints and interlocking wood geometry.
* The frame is designed so members **lock under load**, which improves stability.
* This approach supports repair: members can be replaced with less damage to adjacent parts.
(Modern restorations may discreetly add steel connectors for code compliance, but the traditional logic is still joinery-first.)
---
### 6) The roof system: the “engine” of the hanok silhouette
The roof is both structural and climatic.
**Roof coverings**
* **Giwa (tile roof)**: durable, heavy, prestigious; requires robust framing.
* **Choga (thatch roof)**: lighter, strong insulation performance, needs periodic replacement.
**Roof types (common forms)**
* **Matbae**: simple gable roof.
* **Paljak**: hip-and-gable roof (complex and expressive).
* **Ujingak**: hipped roof.
**Why eaves matter**
* **Deep eaves** block high summer sun yet admit low winter sun.
* They reduce wall wetting by rain and protect paper windows and plaster surfaces.
---
### 7) Floors: ondol and maru as a seasonal HVAC system
**Ondol (gudeul) heated floor**
* Heat source traditionally came from the **kitchen fire (agungi)**.
* Hot gases passed through **flues beneath stone slabs**, warming the floor, then exited via a chimney.
* Ondol provides stable radiant heat, ideal for sitting/sleeping on the floor.
**Maru (raised wooden floor)**
* A ventilated cavity under the floor helps keep it dry.
* In summer, the maru becomes a naturally cool zone with airflow, especially when aligned with breezes through open doors.
Many hanok plans deliberately place ondol rooms adjacent to maru spaces to create a **thermal gradient** that matches seasonal living patterns.
---
### 8) Walls, windows, and openings: breathable, adjustable boundaries
**Wall construction**
* Often a combination of **wood framing + earthen infill/plaster** (clay, sand, sometimes lime) that buffers humidity.
* The wall is part enclosure, part climate moderator.
**Changho (doors/windows) with hanji (paper)**
* Paper over a wooden lattice diffuses light, reduces glare, and allows subtle vapor permeability.
* Multiple layers (outer shutters + inner paper doors) create a flexible insulation system.
Openings can be reconfigured daily: fully open for airflow, partially closed for shade, or layered shut for warmth.
---
### 9) The modular bay: “kan” as a planning unit
Traditional planning uses a bay module often described as **kan** (space between columns).
* Room sizes and proportions are frequently expressed by the number of bays.
* This modularity helps structural clarity, incremental expansion, and repair.
---
### 10) Regional and social variations (why hanok is not one “standard”)
Hanok differs by:
* **Climate**: colder regions emphasize ondol density and enclosure; warmer regions emphasize open maru and airflow.
* **Materials**: timber species, stone availability, soil composition.
* **Status**: bracket complexity, roof form, compound size, and detailing reflect social hierarchy.
---
### 11) Practical tips and modern applications (without changing the core logic)
**A. Moisture is the #1 enemy**
* Keep wood lifted from ground moisture; ensure site drainage.
* Control splash-back from the courtyard; manage roof runoff and gutters carefully (even if hidden).
**B. Airtightness must be balanced with breathability**
* Over-sealing with modern membranes can trap moisture in earthen walls.
* If adding insulation, design a moisture strategy (vapor control + ventilation), not just thicker walls.
**C. MEP integration (electricity/plumbing/heating) should respect the frame**
* Avoid cutting primary posts/beams.
* Route services in reversible chases or secondary cavities so future repairs remain possible.
**D. Seismic/wind upgrades should be “reversible and distributed”**
* Strengthen connections at critical joints, add discreet bracing where it does not concentrate stress.
* Prefer many small improvements over a few rigid interventions that change load paths.
**E. Best modern use-cases**
* Passive comfort buildings: deep eaves + courtyard ventilation.
* Wellness/hospitality: ondol-style radiant heat and warm material tactility.
* Hybrid homes: modern insulation and glazing paired with hanok spatial logic (madang, maru, layered thresholds).
---
## 한국어
### 1) 한옥 구조의 핵심은 “형태”가 아니라 “논리”
한옥은 기와·목재·한지 같은 외형보다, 다음의 **구조·환경 설계 원리**로 정의됩니다.
* 지붕 하중을 받는 **목구조(기둥-보 구조)** 중심의 골조
* 햇빛·비를 제어하는 **깊은 처마와 다층 지붕**
* 겨울엔 **온돌**, 여름엔 **마루**로 계절을 분리하는 “자연형 공조”
* **마당(마당=외부 거실)** 중심의 채(棟) 배치로 채광·통풍·사생활을 조직
---
### 2) 배치와 방향: 땅·바람·햇빛을 먼저 읽는다
* 대체로 **남향 선호**(겨울 일사 확보, 채광 유리)
* 빗물 흐름과 배수 고려로 **기단·초석**을 높이고 물길을 만든다
* **마당**은 빛과 바람을 끌어들이는 장치이자, 생활 동선의 완충 공간
* 대문에서 안쪽으로 들어갈수록 **공적 → 사적** 영역이 단계적으로 깊어진다
---
### 3) 공간 구성: “채”의 조합으로 생활과 위계를 만든다
전통 한옥(특히 규모 있는 가옥)은 여러 동(채)이 기능을 나눕니다.
* **사랑채**: 손님·응접·서재 등 외부 지향/공적 영역
* **안채**: 가족 생활의 중심(부엌, 안방, 생활 공간)
* **행랑채**: 수납·부속·관리 기능(가옥 성격에 따라)
* **별채**: 서재·정자형 공간·휴식·부속 공간 등
이 분리는 문화뿐 아니라 **환기·채광·수리·확장**을 유리하게 하는 기술적 장점도 있습니다.
---
### 4) 목구조 골조: 기둥-보가 지붕을 들고, 벽은 “가볍게” 감싼다
한옥의 뼈대는 대개 **가구식 목구조**입니다.
* **초석/기단**: 목재가 땅의 습기를 직접 받지 않게 띄우고 하중을 분산
* **기둥**: 지붕 하중을 수직으로 전달
* **보·도리·장선(구성에 따라)**: 기둥을 묶고 지붕틀을 받침
* **서까래**: 지붕 곡선·형상을 만들며 지붕층을 지지
* (격식 높은 건물은) **공포** 등 받침 부재가 처마 하중을 분산
하중 흐름은 대체로
**지붕(기와·토층) → 서까래 → 도리/보 → 기둥 → 초석 → 지반**
으로 내려갑니다. 그래서 벽은 구조적 역할이 상대적으로 적고, **문·창·칸막이를 유연하게** 만들 수 있습니다.
---
### 5) 결구(짜맞춤): 못보다 “맞물림”으로 강도를 만든다
한옥은 전통적으로
* **장부짜임, 연귀, 촉·홈** 같은 짜맞춤으로 부재를 결합
* 하중이 실릴수록 **더 단단히 잠기는 구조**를 지향
* 수리 시에도 한 부재만 교체하는 등 **복원·보수**에 유리
현대 보수에서는 안전 기준 때문에 철물 보강을 섞기도 하지만, 기본 철학은 “결구 중심”입니다.
---
### 6) 지붕: 한옥의 상징이자 기능 장치
* **기와지붕(瓦)**: 내구성·위엄·방수성, 다만 무겁기 때문에 골조가 튼튼해야 함
* **초가지붕**: 가볍고 단열감 좋으나 주기적 보수 필요
지붕 형식(대표)
* **맞배지붕**(단순한 박공)
* **팔작지붕**(박공+사면 결합, 형태가 풍부)
* **우진각지붕**(사면지붕)
**처마의 역할**
* 여름의 높은 해는 차단하고, 겨울의 낮은 해는 들이는 **계절형 차양**
* 비가 벽·창호에 직접 튀는 것을 줄여 **내구성**을 높임
---
### 7) 바닥: 온돌과 마루는 “계절별 생활 장치”
**온돌(구들)**
* 전통적으로 부엌 아궁이의 열기가 구들장을 지나 굴뚝으로 빠지며 바닥을 덥힘
* 복사난방 특성이 강해 체감이 좋고, 좌식 생활과 결합
**마루**
* 지면에서 띄워 바람이 통하게 하여 여름에 시원
* 문을 열면 바람길이 생겨 **자연 환기**에 유리
한옥은 온돌방과 마루를 배치해 계절에 따라 생활 중심이 이동하도록 설계하는 경우가 많습니다.
---
### 8) 벽·창호: “숨 쉬는 경계”와 가변적 개폐
* 벽은 목재 골조에 흙(토벽)·미장 등을 조합해 **습도 완충** 기능을 가짐
* **창호(한지문)**는 빛을 부드럽게 확산하고, 여러 겹(덧문+한지문)으로 **단열을 조절**함
* 개폐가 자유로워 하루 안에서도 **통풍·차광·보온** 모드를 바꿀 수 있음
---
### 9) 칸(間): 기둥 사이 모듈이 평면을 만든다
한옥은 기둥 사이 간격을 기준으로 공간을 구성하는 **칸 모듈** 개념이 강합니다.
* 방 크기·비례가 칸 수로 표현되는 경우가 많고
* 구조가 명확해 증축·수리에도 유리합니다
---
### 10) 응용·팁: 현대에 한옥 논리를 살리는 방법
* **습기 관리가 최우선**: 배수, 처마 빗물, 마당 물튐, 목재 띄움(기단·초석) 관리가 성패를 좌우
* **기밀·단열은 “과하면 독”**: 토벽은 숨 쉬는 재료이므로, 무조건 밀봉하면 결로·부패 위험이 커짐(환기·방습 전략 포함)
* **설비(MEP)는 구조체를 피해 가기**: 기둥·보를 절단하지 않고, 되돌릴 수 있는 배선/배관 경로를 만드는 것이 보수성에 유리
* **내진·내풍 보강은 분산형으로**: 특정 지점만 과도하게 강하게 만들면 하중 경로가 바뀌어 오히려 손상이 집중될 수 있음
* **현대적 최적 활용**: 패시브 차양(처마), 마당 기반 환기, 온돌형 복사난방, 레이어드(겹) 경계의 공간 경험은 현대 주거·숙박·웰니스에 강점
---
## 日本語
### 1) 韓屋（ハノク）の構造は「見た目」ではなく「仕組み」
韓屋は、木の柱梁構造を骨格にして、深い軒と多層の屋根、そして**冬＝オンドル／夏＝マル**という季節分離で快適性をつくる建築です。中庭（マダン）が光と風を取り込み、生活の中心になります。
### 2) 配置と平面：中庭と領域の段階
* 南向きの採光を重視する例が多い
* 門から奥に向かって公的→私的が深まる
* サランチェ（客・応接）／アンチェ（家族生活）など機能分棟で、通風・採光・修理性にも利点
### 3) 木組み：柱・梁が屋根を支え、壁は比較的軽い
* 柱→梁・桁→垂木で屋根荷重を受け、**石の礎石**へ伝える
* 壁は充填・間仕切りとしての性格が強く、開口（建具）を柔軟にできる
### 4) 結合（継手・仕口）：金物より“組む”
ほぞ・込み栓的な木組みで、荷重がかかるほど締まる考え方。補修時の部材交換にも向きます。
### 5) 屋根：軒が日射と雨を制御する
瓦屋根（重いが耐久）や茅葺き（軽いが補修周期）など。深い軒は夏の日射を遮り、雨から壁と建具を守ります。
### 6) 床：オンドルとマルが季節の空調になる
* オンドル：床下の煙道で床を温める放射暖房
* マル：床下通風で夏に涼しい
この組み合わせが、韓屋の快適性の核です。
### 7) 現代応用の要点
湿気対策（排水・雨仕舞い）が最重要。気密化は土壁の性質と整合させ、結露リスクを管理。設備配管は主要構造を避け、可逆性を確保するのが基本です。
---
## Español
### 1) Qué es “la estructura” de un hanok
Un **hanok** se entiende por su lógica: **armazón de madera de postes y vigas**, **tejado estratificado con aleros profundos**, y una estrategia térmica estacional: **ondol** (suelo radiante tradicional) en invierno y **maru** (tarima elevada ventilada) en verano, organizada alrededor del **patio (madang)**.
### 2) Implantación y organización espacial
* Orientación frecuentemente favorable al sol invernal (sur)
* Patio como “habitación exterior” para luz y ventilación
* Secuencia de privacidad desde la puerta hacia el interior
* Volúmenes por función (sarangchae más público; anchae más privado), lo que mejora ventilación y mantenimiento
### 3) Sistema portante de madera
* Cargas del tejado → cabios/elementos secundarios → vigas/correas → postes → bases de piedra → terreno
* Los muros suelen ser más ligeros y permiten grandes aberturas y particiones flexibles
### 4) Ensambles: resistencia mediante carpintería
Uniones tipo mortaja-espiga y geometrías encastradas; facilitan reparación y sustitución de piezas.
### 5) Tejado y aleros
Cubiertas de teja (pesadas y duraderas) o paja (más ligera, requiere reposición). Aleros profundos: sombrean en verano, dejan entrar sol bajo en invierno y protegen muros y carpinterías de la lluvia.
### 6) Suelos: ondol y maru como climatización natural
Ondol aporta calor radiante estable; maru aporta frescor por ventilación inferior. Su combinación crea confort sin depender totalmente de sistemas mecánicos.
### 7) Consejos de aplicación moderna
Prioridad absoluta: humedad y drenaje. La “super-estanqueidad” puede atrapar vapor en muros de tierra; hay que diseñar control de vapor y ventilación. Integrar instalaciones evitando cortar postes/vigas principales y manteniendo soluciones reversibles.
---
## Français
### 1) La structure d’un hanok : une logique constructive et climatique
Un **hanok** repose sur une **ossature bois poteaux-poutres**, un **toit épais à grands débords**, et une stratégie saisonnière : **ondol** (chauffage de sol traditionnel) pour l’hiver et **maru** (plancher surélevé ventilé) pour l’été, articulés autour de la **cour (madang)**.
### 2) Implantation et plan
* Orientation souvent favorable à l’ensoleillement hivernal
* Cour comme pièce extérieure (lumière, ventilation, tampon thermique)
* Progression d’intimité depuis l’entrée vers le cœur de la maison
* Répartition en corps de bâtiment (ex. sarangchae plus public, anchae plus privé), utile aussi pour l’aération et l’entretien
### 3) Ossature porteuse : le toit domine la structure
Le chemin des charges suit : couverture → chevrons → pannes/poutres → poteaux → dés de pierre → sol. Les murs jouent souvent un rôle d’enveloppe plus que de porteur principal, d’où une grande souplesse d’ouvertures.
### 4) Assemblages bois : “tenir par l’emboîtement”
Les assemblages traditionnels (type tenon-mortaise) et la géométrie des pièces permettent une structure robuste et réparable (remplacement de pièces sans démolir l’ensemble).
### 5) Toiture et grands débords
Toit en tuiles (durable mais lourd) ou en chaume (plus léger, entretien périodique). Les grands débords protègent l’enveloppe, gèrent soleil et pluie, et contribuent fortement au confort.
### 6) Sols : ondol + maru = confort saisonnier
Ondol apporte une chaleur rayonnante stable; maru crée un espace frais grâce à la ventilation sous plancher. L’alternance des usages selon la saison est au cœur du “fonctionnement” d’un hanok.
### 7) Conseils d’intégration contemporaine
La gestion de l’humidité (drainage, eaux de toiture, protection du bois) est décisive. Une étanchéité excessive peut piéger la vapeur dans des parois en terre; il faut une stratégie hygrothermique complète. Les réseaux (élec/plomberie) doivent éviter les pièces porteuses et rester réversibles pour préserver la maintenabilité.